巴布亚新几内亚咖啡生产历史并不长。虽然咖啡种植早在19世纪90年代便开始了,但最初并未被视为商业产品。到了1926年,18座庄园成立,当时使用的是来自牙买加蓝山咖啡(Blue Mountai)的种子。到了1928年,咖啡产业才开始蓬勃发展。
The history of coffee production on the island is not long. Although coffee planting began in 1890s, it was not regarded as a commercial product at first. In 1926, 18 manor gardens were set up at that time using seeds from Jamaica Lanshan coffee. The coffee industry began to flourish in 1928.
20世纪50年代,产业开始有了结构性发展,随着基础设施的兴建,岛上的咖啡相关活动得以蓬勃发展。另一波更长足的发展则出现在20世纪70年代,原因可能在于巴西咖啡产量下滑。那时政府有一系列的补助方案鼓励小型农场改由共同合作社经营。
In 1950s, the industry began to develop structurally. With the development of infrastructure, the coffee related activities on the island flourished. Another significant development was in 1970s, probably due to a decline in coffee production in Brazil. At that time, the government had a series of subsidy schemes to encourage small farms to be operated by co operative cooperatives.
业界当时多半着重于庄园的管理,但自20世纪80年代起,当地产业结构开始改变,重心也出现分散的情况。或许因为咖啡价格下跌,使许多庄园因此陷入财务危机。相较之下,小农户受市场场波动的影响较小,因此得以继续生产咖啡。
At that time, the industry mostly focused on the management of the manor, but since 1980s, the local industrial structure has begun to change and the center of gravity is also dispersed. Perhaps because of the decline in coffee prices, many farms are in financial crisis. By contrast, small farmers are less affected by fluctuations in the market, so they can continue to produce coffee.
如今岛上95%的生产者皆为自给自足的小农户,生产全国90% 的咖啡,品种几乎全数为阿拉比卡。这也表示境内相当大比例的人口都与生产咖啡有关;尤其是居住在高地区域的人们。这点对生产大量高质量咖啡来说是个极大挑战,因为许多生产者缺乏使用恰当的采收后处理的渠道。缺乏产销履历,也使高质量咖啡无法得到应有的奖励。
Today, 95% of the island's producers are self-sufficient small farmers, producing 90% of the country's coffee, almost all varieties of A Labica. It also means that a large proportion of the population in the territory is related to the production of coffee, especially those living in the highlands. This is a great challenge for the production of large quantities of high quality coffee, because many producers are short of proper harvesting channels. Lack of production and marketing experience also makes high quality coffee unable to get the rewards it deserves.
产销履历 /Product sales resume/
不少大型庄园仍然经营得有声有色,因此要找到来自某一庄园的咖啡是可能的。产销履历的概念在岛上的历史并不长,过去有些咖啡农也会从其他生产者那里买入咖啡,包装成自有品牌来销售。将咖啡以区域分别贩卖是相当新的做法。不过岛上的海拔与土壤确实使此地咖啡拥有绝佳的潜力,因此过去几年也开始吸引了精品咖啡业者的注意。购买时可着重于能够追溯到单一庄园或生产者集团的咖啡豆。
Many large manor gardens still run very well, so it is possible to find coffee from a manor. The concept of production and marketing history is not long on the island. In the past, some coffee farmers also bought coffee from other producers and sold it as a private brand. It is quite new to sell coffee separately in the region. However, the elevation and the soil on the island really have great potential for coffee in the region, so the past few years have begun to attract the attention of the boutique coffee producers. When buying, you can focus on coffee beans that can be traced back to a single estate or producer group.
◆ 巴布内新几内亚Papua New Guinea
咖啡口感 /Coffee taste/
通常都带着奶油般的绵密口感 /Cream/
拥有绝佳的甜美度 /Sweet/
与独特的复杂度 /Complexity/