与水洗处理法和日晒处理法两大传统处理方法并列,蜜处理方法也成为咖啡处理方法中的一支独秀。蜜处理即honey或者miel,honey即为蜂蜜的意思,miel是拉丁语中蜜的意思,所以这种方法的豆子总让人联想到香甜。在很多场合和条件下,似乎plupednatural处理法也被视同为蜜处理,到底两者之间是否有区别,区别是大是小,CoffeeReview给了我们进一步的说明,希望下面的一段摘自coffeereview的文章能够让大家对密处理有更深入的认识。
咖啡处理方法:蜜处理
HoneyandPulpedNaturalCoffees
byKennethDavids;ReviewsbyKennethDavidswithJasonSarley
“Honey”isarelativelynewtermdescribingcoffeethathasbeendriedwithallorsomeofthestickyfruitpulpor“honey”(mielinSpanish)stilladheringtothebean.Thosefamiliarwithcoffeeprocessingmethodswill,ofcourse,recognizethispracticeasakindofcompromisebetweentwomorefamiliarprocessingmethods:thedryor“natural”method,inwhichthebeansaredriedwhileentirelyencasedinsidethefruit,andthewetor“washed”method,inwhichallofthesoftfruitresidue,bothskinandpulp,arescrubbedoffbeforethecoffeeisdried.Likeallvariationsinprocessingmethod,honeyprocessingprofoundlyimpactscupcharacter,whichisdoubtlessthemainreasonproducers,particularlyinCentralAmerica,havebeenexperimentingwithit.Allofthenineteenhoneycoffeeswecuppedforthisarticleappeartohavebeenspeciallypreparedsmall-lotcoffeesintendedtoexcitethehigh-endspecialtymarket.Judgingfromoursampling,whatcanacoffeeloverexpectfromtheseexperiments?
SomethingDifferent
Thesehoneycoffeesdidnotdramaticallyorspectacularlydeviatefromthe“washed”orwet-processedsensorynormforfinecoffee,buttheydiddeviate.Theywererounderinacidity,withlesscitrusybrightnessandmorechocolate,morearomaticwood,andgenerallyabitmoresweetness.
SomethingLessPredictable
Thesehoneysamplesnotonlyweredifferentfromthewet-processednormgenerally,buttheyalsowerequitedifferentfromoneanother.AllofthehoneysampleswecuppedthismonthoriginatedinCentralAmerica:ElSalvador,CostaRicaandNicaragua.Hadwecuppedthesamenumberofconventionalwet-processedcoffeesfromthesesameorigins,wesurelywouldnothaveexperiencedasrichanddiverseasetofsensoryexpressionsaswedidwiththesehoneycoffees.
Inpartthismaybebecausesensoryexpectationsareclearlyestablishedforwet-processed,high-growncoffeesfromCentralAmerica,andproducers,graders,exportersandimportersalltendtoessentiallyeditcoffeestomakesuretheyfittheseclearlydefinedexpectations.Nosuchclearexpectationshavebeenestablishedforhoneycoffees,allowingproducersanopenplayingfieldfortheirexperiments.Notthatanyofthesampleswereceivedshowedclearsignoftaint.Infact,overallthesehoneysampleswereremarkablyfreefromtaintandconsistentlyagreeable,althoughagreeableindiverseways.
Forexample,theElSalvadorCasasdeLaminafromTempleCoffee(92),withitshintofbrandyishfruitfermentoverlayingacherryishdarkchocolate,suggestedaquieter,morerestrainedversionoffruitynatural-processedcoffees.Ontheotherhand,theCaffeLadroElSalvadorLaRoxanita(92)wasrichlydryandtartlysweet,astructurewemightexpectfromawet-processedcoffee,thoughtheintensechocolate-tonedrichnessIsuspectderivesfromthedeepeningandroundingimpactofthehoneyprocessingmethod.TheElSalvadorElRubiHoneyfromKlatchCoffee(91)waslushly,almostheavilyfloralincharacterandquietinacidity,bothcharacteristicsthatwemightexpecttobeintensifiedbythehoneyprocess.Finally,theNicaraguaPlantioelAserraderofromVelton’sCoffee(90)cameacrossasatrans-oceanicvariationoftheearthand